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Catching summer chills at Monte Gelato waterfalls....

Updated: Aug 11, 2022

Its 38 degrees elsewhere around Lazio, but under the canopies at Monte Gelato, in the Parco Regionale Valle del Treja, its a balmy 30 - an instant relief from the Italian summer sun. These magnificent waterfalls are found between Rome and Viterbo and have featured in many famous Italian films. As we arrive, all that can be heard is the roaring gush of fresh water and walking down the steps at the old mill entrance, you feel the temperature begin to drop.

My sister is visiting this week - a fair-skinned Scot with no hope of tanning in this lifetime - and she welcomes the shadows around the river. After a 17-minute drive on the motorino, from Trevignano, we arrive to find a cute agritourismo on the edge of the park. Today however, we've brought supplies: books, a picnic and bikinis.


First on the agenda - a dip. We head under the cascade for a quick hair rinse - its freezing and strong - the perfect wake up call on a summers day. There are three main waterfalls here where locals are bathing - up top, two smaller pools, and further down the larger, more scenic, spacious and spectacular pool. All picturesque. There is an easy to follow loop around the top and bottom pools, with lots of space to set out your picnic blankets along the way. It's hard for any visitor to pass by without at least rolling up their trouser leg and getting their hairy gams in. Dogs too. Out of the water, it doesn't take long to dry off and let the relaxation commence.


Kirsty, our guru for everything nature-related, arrives at lunch time to give us a brief history of Monte Gelato and the paths of the Treja Park.

Its located in one of Lazio protected nature reserves and (while not the size of a mountain as the name suggests) is a hill of volcanic origin.

The location boasts an old Roman villa dating back to the 4th Century and a watermill dating back to the 1800's. The grinding wheel remained in use until the early 1960s and after a period of neglect in the 1990s it was purchased and restored by the Treja Valley Regional Park.

The site is easily accessible on foot and by car (there is a parking lot 300 meters away, in the Castellaccio area). Monte Gelato is also connected with the Via Francigena routes. The mill building now houses an information point, with reconstructive panels and models illustrating the operation of the old mill and providing information on the history and nature of the territory.


We chit chat for another 3 hours, putting the world to rights, before reluctantly dragging ourselves back to the temperatures above. We had a great day here, a perfect alternative to the usual sweat-fest of July and August. Pack plenty water, a large blanket, a comfy pillow (the ground is hard and butts get numb quick) or hammock, a fresh picnic, bathing suits and towels, flip-flops as well as comfortable footwear for exploring beyond the paths, and you've got yourself the perfect summer chill situation.

Written by: Fiona Pollard





 
 
 

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